Where can I start in describing this place – a place and people so unlike anything I have ever before experienced?
Mauritania, while vast, is one of the least densely populated countries in Africa. The land varies from sun-drenched sand dunes, which occupy much of the country, to lushly vegetated – comparatively speaking – riverbanks to the south and seasides to the west.
The peoples are themselves divided into two diverse groups, the Moors and the Africans – and within these groups, the Moors into the blacks and whites and the Africans into various ethnic tribes.
To begin to understand this place, I suppose one first has to begin to understand its people, and more specifically, the Moors, the dominant group in Mauritania. Once nomadic, the Moors have become more sedentary over the past few decades, due to droughts and other various climate changes. The transition from nomadic to city life has been, in my biased opinion, sluggish. The Moors still seem to romanticize the nomadic existence, and somewhere deep in the underbellies of their minds, they refuse to give it up. The old ways are perhaps still too fresh in their consciousness: their old lives still lingering and hovering over their daily thoughts and activities. It is my personal hope that future younger generations will, if not embrace change, be more accepting to it – such that, if not for anything else, to better develop their cities and the general infrastructure within the country.
Another important facet of Mauritanian life is racism, nowadays a natural aspect of daily living – like taking a breath or tolerating the heat. Organized in a caste-like fashion, white Moors put themselves on lofty pedestals. More often than not, under-qualified Moors get high-ranking government posts and contracts. One will almost never lay their eyes on a white Moor performing manual labor; they choose instead to run small boutiques and businesses. Black Moors, on the other hand, are given all jobs menial and strenuous. Often poorer than white Moors, black Moors are generally denied all the privileges that come with a lighter toned skin. Black Africans, viewed by the white Moors to be highly undesirable, are often well educated and pride themselves in their culture. They are generally more welcoming and generous than white Moors – a biased opinion, I will admit. More willing to learn French than white Moors, black Africans generally dominate the staffs of foreign aid organizations and NGOs.
Racism here is not like it is back home: it is not so hostile here, not yet. Change will come, however – I have seen and talked with younger generations of angry black Africans who are more willing to act and speak out against the current racial attitudes of this place and its people. Yes – change will come, of this I am sure, but at what pace is difficult to tell.
That’s all for now…a rather brief and not terribly thought out introduction, I admit – but hopefully it’s not altogether terrible.
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And now on a personal note, I want to say this…
I came to the Peace Corps looking for something – to understand and to determine my worth, to grow and to mature: I came here for these things, among other such fleeting and intangible things. Over the course of the past half-year, I have come to realize though that I miss home very much, and that – more importantly – home lies with friends and family. I miss people the most, much more than I had ever anticipated. The conversations, the laughter, the sad moments and even the angry ones too – all of it, I miss it all.
C’est comme ça – c’est la vie, though, I suppose…I’ll be home soon.
In the meanwhile, to those who may read this, don’t have too much fun while I’m gone…
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